Saturday, September 27, 2008

Last blog...

Fall in Livengood
Livengood




Robert's first helicopter ride!



OK, time to wrap up the summer (before winter!). It is almost a month since I left Alaska. I’ve spent most of my days catching up on all the work I would normally have done in the summer, as well as putting together a report on, “How we spent our summer.” A major undertaking. I have taken on some new activities – Tai Chi, Pilates, and Yoga. Hopefully these activities will make me stronger and better prepared for another field season. My knees have fully recovered and the steep slopes are a distant memory. I hope it won’t be too long before I can do the same again. The house survived, Jeanne had a great summer, and the cat is still here!

Enjoy the final photos – they are a mix from the summer. As I said before if there is something you want to do … make it happen. Thanks for following my story!

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

"Scary Bear" Story

The summer is almost over. At Livengood, the drill camp where I’ll spend my last few days in Alaska, the leaves are turning yellow and the mornings are a little frosty. I fly home to Denver on Monday evening. 5 work days left.

So … I finally have a “scary bear” story. Not that I ever saw it. Sometimes what you don’t see is more scary! Last Friday Dan and I started work on a soil sample survey about 40 minutes out of Fairbanks. Dan lives in Fairbanks and commuted everyday. I stayed at the Fairbanks Creek Lodge closer to the area. This used to be an old bunkhouse for a mining camp – built around 1928. The family that owns it moved it in 3 pieces about 12 years ago. The lodge sleeps 19 in addition to the family so it is a fairly large building. I spent an interesting evening with Brenda and Steve and a Swedish couple looking at the photos of the lodge-move. Anyway – good food and nice people. Back to the “scary bear.” The soil sampling we were doing was a fair distance from the lodge – about 30 minutes in the truck and then another 45 minutes on ATV’s. That was also an interesting experience as I’ve never even sat on an ATV before last week. Fortunately Dan was a good ATV instructor and wee didn’t lose too much time. Despite the frosty mornings and biting wind I survived and can now put “ATV experience” on my resume!

Dan and I took the first sample together (it took another 30 minutes to get to this point after we left the ATVs! Some commute!) to see what we were sampling and make sure we were on the same page. We then moved to our respective lines which were about 50 meters apart. While digging my first hole I smelt something really bad. Bad enough to make me stand up and look around for a dead carcass. Nothing. I moved on to my next sample site – 50m away and started digging. There was a shriek followed by Dan yelling down the hill “What’s up?” I got on my radio and replied “That wasn’t me?” Dan says “It wasn’t?” So we carry on to our next sample site, still 50 meters apart and as I start digging I hear this really deep, loud growl! Very close. As I fumbled with the radio to ask Dan If he had heard it (silly question, it was a very loud growl!) I was trying to get my gun out of the pack (!!). About the same time I radioed Dan there was another louder growl – loud enough to echo in the valley. It was pretty close and Dan confirmed it was 100% bear growl. Where’s a chopper when you need it? We made loud noises and fortunately we never heard it again. We hoped it got fed up with us and our noise and left the valley. We think that the original shriek was either a cub or the bear killing a small animal. The growls could have been for us or the bear telling its cub to get a move on. We’ll never know. Digging the rest of the holes that day was a little nerve wracking; your senses are all on super alert. The guy that invented Teddy Bears for children had a warped sense of humor or he never heard an angry bear growl!

Not too big of a deal, but a reminder that when we are out working we are intruders in nature!

Not much else from the new part of the world … will try to take Fall color photos tomorrow.

Fall weather - blue skies

View from Fairbanks Creek Lodge - Mt McKinley in far off distance.
And this is black bear country.
Fairbanks Creek Lodge
Last week - Summit Lake. Road in foreground parallels Alaska Pipeline. We spent a total of 5 weeks at Waters Edge - to right of center, flying out daily to the work area. This was taken on the last day & last helicopter ride in.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

My Daily Commute ...














Hello faithful readers! I heard from my daughter Melissa that there are some of you at Waldies (http://www.waldies.net/) that keep up to date with my blog. Thanks for reading. I can honestly say that I have worn my Waldies most evenings during my Alaskan adventures. What a relief they are after wearing hiking or Xtra-tuff boots all day. If/when I do this again I will take an extra pair of Waldies with no holes for the rainy evenings. Keep reading – it looks like I have only 13 days left in Alaska. The last 5 days may not be so exciting as I’ll be working on the drill project at Livengood. No more wild mountains or days out in the field alone.

We had 2 weather days in a row where it just rained. We work in the rain but when the chopper can’t actually get to the field area because the clouds are too low or visibility is poor we get a “weather day.” One weather day is good to catch up on paperwork. Two and everybody gets bored and grouchy. Hard work outside actually becomes addictive!

Today was just a really quiet beautiful day in Alaska. It was a little chilly and we woke up to frost and fog on the lake, but also glorious blue sky above that! We were in the field a little after 8am and finished about 5pm, anxious to finish up before we leave here in a few days. Great not to see or hear anybody all day. Today I didn’t even see any wildlife. Usually I see a caribou and some ground squirrel, but not today. The photos kind of show my day – from the fog on the lake at camp, the hills during the day and some idea of our daily commute – wide open valleys with braided streams today with the colors are just turning.

I’ve thrown in a photo of Ed, Dan, John stranded on the gravel bar yesterday, hoping that the clouds would lift so we could go to work. We had a good time looking at the rocks and after a couple of hours decided to fly back ‘home’ following the river to the road. I think it shows we made good effort to get to work.
Photos are a little out of order, but I'm sure you can match them with the text!


Friday, August 15, 2008

A Glacier Day


This is the view from my drop off spot today.

This gives you an idea of the slope I was walking on today. It was 12:30pm before I found a flat enough spot to take my backpack off for a few minutes.
Glaciers seen from the helicopter on the way home today.

Glacial morraine in the valley.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

At gun point …

Just finished a very interesting week or so in Central Alaska. We literally helicopter hopped from one gold placer mine operation to another looking for links and clues for the mega-lode! Getting permission was a little tricky … some we called in advance and others we asked for permission by ‘dropping’ in. Placers miners are a little jumpy – always on the alert for people out to steal their gold. On the first day it was raining cats and dogs (yes we are working in the wettest and coldest summer in Alaska in about 17 years I believe. It has been cold and wet for at least a month and apparently no one thinks we will actually get a summer. Berries are low and the bears hungry.). The rain has no significance to our placer mining stories; just picture 5 bedraggled geologists in rubber boots in the mud, lots of mud. Because we arrived at the lodge at midday the helicopter hadn’t yet arrived and we decided to drive to look at the first placer workings. After receiving a warm welcome from several miners we drove through an unlocked gate hoping to find the owner, shortly after we met an oncoming truck. In it were a husband, wife and dog. We stopped to ask permission and introduce ourselves and the guy had a cocked pistol at the ready! We asked if we could look at his dumps and he said, “No!” One of our group replied “Well that’s an answer”. Fortunately the guy gave us an opening by asking “What were we hoping to find?” we mentioned Livengood in (the company’s big drilling project) and the guy changed tunes instantly. He knew someone connected with our drilling project and had been told that we were the “good guys”. He put the gun away, backed up, and gave us a good tour of his mine. We noticed that the riffles hadn’t been cleaned out that day so he was probably more than a little worried about his gold production for the day been stolen.

The second “incident” occurred a few days later. We were using the helicopter and landed at some old workings. Keep in mind that we all have radios that are using line of sight. This day a placer mine operator was on the same frequency. Not everybody in our group could hear all the dialogue, but below is fairly representative of how the conversation went. The helicopter first dropped of Dan, Ed and myself and then went back to get th others. As they were landing …

Wife of placer miner “Hey xxx, do you hear the chopper? It’s circled camp twice.”

Placer Miner “Get the shotgun ready! Can you see who they are?

Wife “Looks like the statetrooper!”

Us “Helicopter to camp do you copy?”

Wife “ Yeah, we copy”

Us “Can we come in and talk to you?”

Wife to husband “They want to come in an talk can you come over?”
Husband “Do I have to? Can’t you talk to them?”

Wife “I’m busy boiling pickles, can’t leave them!”

Husband “OK, I’ll come over and talk to them.”

Th others had already landed where we were, which was about ½ mile from their camp. When the helicopter landed Tristan jumped out so fast – no way he was going to face the wife with a shotgun and boiling pickles. It turns out they are the nicest people. We are welcome anytime & she’ll make sure the shotgun is put away and will trade us pickles for a newspaper!

We did spent the day wondering if she was really ‘boiling pickles’ or if that was code for trouble brewing!

Another day we had a prior appointment and got a 5 hour tour of placer operations. It was like being back at school on a field trip. Very interesting and fascinating operation. We also got to see his 2.8oz nugget and a bunch of mastodon bones dug up during mining!

We stayed at a place called Lost Creek Ranch. The owner, Les Cobb, homesteaded it in 1970. His wife at the time was the last woman in Alaska to homestead before the law was changed. They moved up here with 5 children ranging in age from 1 year old twins to a 9 year old. Les had to go off for months at a time to work leaving his wife, Norma, and the kids … often in winter. Les became a very successful placer miner and currently has operations in Nome and Mongolia. He and his wife have parted ways and he is now married to a Chinese woman who looked for us during our stay. Norma Cobb wrote a book called ‘Arctic Homestead’. I’m hoping to buy a copy when I get back to civilization. I read the introduction and it promises to be a good read making our adventures this summer look very tame.

I’ve posted some of extra photos from the summer. They are from the Alaska Range area that I’ve already covered, but they show some different perspectives. Mostly bad weather days.

We spent a night at the Livengood drilling project. For results go to http://www.ithmines.com/ The camp is in an old Atco trailer camp originally used for the building of the Alaska Pipeline in the 70’s and housing about 1200 people during contruction. I think our camp only has about 30 people but most of the trailers are still there. Still raining. In the evening Robert (who had about 1 week left of cutting core before his last year of school) and I visited the camp he lived in last year. Got some good photos of rusty trucks and ate ripe raspberries.

The core recon crew drove to Delta Junction. 2 days of soil sampling. The holes were miserable to dig ranging in depth from 0.8m to over a meter. The sun did come out today so at least there was some good in the day. Apparently my season will end with a week more of soil sampling. Just can’t wait! Only good thing is that we will be using 4-wheelers to get to the project. Not that I know how to ride one or have ever been on one!!

Anyway, we are back down at the place we started out at to follow up on our anomalies. I think people are getting tired, most of the crew watch movies by themselves in the evenings and so things are a little quiet. Good thing I have a book to read.

The hills are beginning to change color so I hope to get some interesting photos before we leave.

Other Photos

This was my worst day. Too steep, miserably cold, knees like jelly, the day I realized I get vertigo on slopes!









Getting the hang of walking down talus. I managed this slope without falling - a first.

At work
This was the first day of work and training.
And this is a project area ... for real!!